If March comes in like a lion, and out like a lamb- we must say the same for fashion's first season of the year. SS21's arrival has arrived with a megaphone howl. Tossed out are more or less all the rules, archaic paradigms and structure.
High fashion has not only come down from its arrogant perch, the go-to disparagement of its detractors, but its absolutely opened the flood gates of global creativity. African patterns, Gen Z e-kid sublimation, non binary & fluid pieces are cornerstones. Fashion is finally free of everything but narrative.
Here are our Top 5 best mens runway look from SS21 drops. They are in no particular order, and they are all stellar.
Dior Men's Spring 2021 was largely based on Kim Jones' collaboration with the Ghana-born, Vienna-trained artist Amoako Boafo. Charging forward with uplifting color and gallery prints, Boafo’s African inspired signatures juxtapose perfectly within the design language of Dior's masculine side. Knitwear & outerwear are standouts in this collection. Stripes, prints and diamonds all adorn the stylish, colorful, oversized yet tailored sweaters from Kim Jones' latest range.
German house MCM came, saw and conquered. Done and dusted. Existing in equal measure in the Gen Z and European heritage playpens, the right balance of divergent energy is absolutely beautiful. The collection takes inspiration from MCM's 45-year history, reimagining sharp tailored suits, leather accessories and small goods, and razor-edged rain macs with all-over logos and bright playful sublimation. Bonus points for the very on trend double-denim, bucket hats, and monogrammed face masks. The line's lookbook, entitled "Techno Safari" belongs framed at The MoMa. It's high fashion avatar meets David LaChappelle. we're not kidding.
It's 1963 in the northwest of England again. Liverpudlian and Mancurian bands that birthed Mod Fashion are celebrated as an obvious inspiration behind Raf Simons new narrative at Prada. Super skinny suits, sharp tailoring, and pointed loafers are everything.
"Virgil Abloh has become so goddamn big he's not even cool anymore." Read a comment on a Youtube interview with the designer behind Off_White. While the layman may exclaim that sentiment- the more astute culturist can easily rebuff the childish hypebeast.
See, it's not that he's "not cool" anymore, it's that he's becoming somewhat of an ascended master and you stopped caring when the LA cool guys lost the plot. Virgil is playing two roles simultaneously - one part mad hatter and the other part is DaVinci working in sculpture. He's not streetwear anymore. Abloh's latest collection for stratospheric Off_White has traveled so far from his Pyrex days that he simply outgrew the hype that has surrounded him. SS21 for Off_White takes its inspiration from 70's leisurewear and office attire. Flare legged trousers, cowls, multi-textured layers, and sublimated prints are staple aesthetics.
Demna Gvasalia struck gold with his monochromatic, moody & deconstructed work for SS21. The iconic Kering Brands house has lead the charge on non-binary, fluid, and oversized fits for several seasons now, and they haven't departed from that, they've really just evolved it. Futuristic capuches, trench coats, hard shoulders and undulating draped material are hallmarks, and in alot of ways, seems to take nods from his Vetements days with far more polish.